Tapping Blocks, Pull Bars and Spacers

Tapping blocks close joints in the field, pull bars close them against the wall, and spacers hold the expansion gap. Used right, they seat the lock without crushing it. Used wrong, they break the profile, and a broken lock won't hold.

Tapping blocks

A tapping block spreads the blow along the edge instead of hitting the profile.

• Tap the plank body, never the locking profile.^[1]
• Use a scrap bridge on end joints. Lay a cut piece of flooring across the joint and tap that.^[1][6]
• Block shapes differ. The Crain No. 563 has relieved edges so it's less likely to chip a corner.^[7] The No. 576 lifts LVP to the angle it needs to tap and lock tight.^[8]
• Heavy blocks can replace the hammer. The Crain No. 585^[9] and the Bullet Striker^[10] carry enough weight to seat planks on their own.

Pull bars

Pull bars reach where a block won't fit: the last plank in a row and the last row.

• Use the hammer and pull bar to lock the last piece in each row, and again on the long edges of the last row.^[1]
• Under door casings, a flat pull bar helps lock the planks.^[2]
• Look for a bar with felt pads to protect the finish; the Crain No. 560 has them.^[11] The Roberts Maverick has a wide triangular head.^[12]

Hammer or mallet

Manufacturers don't agree, so check the flooring's instructions.

If an end sits high on Shaw Floorte, tap about 1" away from the seam, never on the seam itself.^[2]

Spacers

Spacers hold the expansion gap while you install. The gap itself comes from the flooring maker.

• On Mannington laminate, put spacers on every starting row so tapping the end seams doesn't shift the whole row.^[5]
• Wedge spacers give 1/4" with one wedge and 3/8" with two opposed.^[15] The Crain No. 562 spacers are 3/16" at one end and 1/4" at the other.^[16]
• For wavy walls, the Crain No. 564 variable spacer adjusts with a threaded pushrod.^[17]
• Pull the spacers before trim goes on. See Floating floor layout.

Step by step

Here's how a typical row goes on a click floor.

1. Set spacers along the starting wall.
2. Angle and drop each plank as the maker describes.
3. Close the long edge with the tapping block. Any gap can compromise the locking system.^[1]
4. Close the end joint through a scrap bridge.
5. Close the last plank with the pull bar.
6. Check that each joint is fully locked before moving on.^[18]

Common mistakes

These break locks and chip edges.

• Tapping the profile directly. Tap the body or a bridge.
• Hammer where the maker says mallet.
• Disengaging by lifting. Slide planks apart instead, or the lock can break.^[6]
• Leaving spacers in.

Tools we carry

These cover tapping, pulling and spacing.

• Crain No. 563, No. 576 LVP Angle and No. 585 Heavy tapping blocks
• Roberts 10-49 Double Tap
• Roberts Maverick Pull Bar and Bullet 712HD Pull Bar
• Crain No. 562 Spacers and Roberts 10-27 Wedge Spacers
• Crain No. 151 White Rubber Mallet
• All tapping blocks and spacers and mallets

References

1. COREtec Pro installation guidelines
2. Shaw: Floorte installation
3. Pergo Extreme Uniclic installation
4. Mannington: ADURA Max installation
5. Mannington: Laminate installation
6. AHF: Rigid core installation
7. Crain No. 563 tapping block (product page)
8. Crain No. 576 LVP angle tapping block (product page)
9. Crain No. 585 heavy tapping block (product page)
10. Bullet Striker tapping block (product page)
11. Crain No. 560 knuckle head pull bar (product page)
12. Roberts Maverick pull bar (product page)
13. Roberts 10-25 tapping block (product page)
14. Mohawk/Pergo: Installation essentials guide
15. Roberts expansion wedge spacers (product page)
16. Crain No. 562 plastic spacers (product page)
17. Crain No. 564 variable wall spacer (product page)
18. Pergo Extreme installation (2019 update)

Linked PDF documents are archived copies saved by PreFloor Tools so they stay available if the publisher moves or removes them. Check the publisher's website for the latest revision.