Laminate

Floating Floor Layout and Expansion Gaps

Expansion gaps, run lengths, stagger rules, first-row planning and cabinet guidance for floating laminate and rigid core floors.

Updated · 2 min read

A floating floor has to move. Layout is about giving it room at the edges, breaking it up where the maker requires, and planning the rows so nothing ends up too narrow. The numbers below compare three makers' instructions.[1][2][3] Follow the product you're installing.

Expansion gaps

Gaps vary by product and floor size.

Product Perimeter gap
Pergo laminate 3/8"[1]
Shaw rigid core (Floorte Pro) 1/4" under 2,500 sq ft; 1/2" over[2]
COREtec Pro 1/4" under 2,500 sq ft; 1/2" over[3]

Leave the gap at every wall, pipe, cabinet base and door jamb. Undercut jambs so the floor slides under; see Undercutting door jambs.

Run lengths and T-moldings

Pergo requires a T-molding break in any area longer or wider than 40 ft, and in doorways 4 ft wide or less.[1] Shaw's and COREtec's rigid core instructions don't set a length limit.[2][3] It's one of the biggest differences between products, so check it before you plan transitions.

Stagger

Spread end joints out so the locks share the load.

  • Pergo Portfolio: first piece at least 8", and end joints offset at least 6" (2018 instructions).[4] Check the sheet in the box, since later printings may differ.
  • On Shaw rigid core, pieces are at least 6" and end joints at least 6" apart (8 to 10" for long planks). Tile formats: offset at least 1/3, with 1/2 preferred.[2]

Plan the first row

Most layout problems are decided before the first plank goes down.

  1. Measure the room across the planks and divide by plank width to see how wide the last row will be.
  2. If the last row would be very narrow, rip the first row so both are closer in width.
  3. Run planks parallel to the longest exterior wall, or as the maker recommends.
  4. Remove the tongue on the wall side of the first row.
  5. Set spacers and keep the first two rows straight and square. Everything else follows them.

Cabinets and heavy fixtures

Manufacturers disagree here. Pergo says not to fasten cabinets through the floor and to oversize the anchor holes.[1] Shaw and COREtec say to glue down the area under and 2 ft beyond the cabinets.[2][3] Follow the instructions for your product.

Don't pin the floor

Anything fastened through a floating floor stops it moving.

  • Fasten moldings and transitions to the wall or subfloor, not the planks.
  • Don't caulk the floor to the wall.
  • In wet areas, Pergo requires 100% silicone with foam backer rod, not acrylic.[1]

Flatness matters too: Pergo lists 3/16" in 10 ft,[1] and Shaw also allows 1/8" in 6 ft.[2] See Subfloor flatness. Failures are covered in Peaking, gapping and bounce in floating floors.

Common mistakes

These cause most floating floor callbacks.

  • No gap at door jambs.
  • A narrow last row. Plan it from the first row.
  • Nailing the transition through the floor.
  • Ignoring the maker's run limit.

Tools we carry

These are the tapping blocks, pull bars and spacers we stock.

References

  1. Pergo: Installation essentials
  2. Shaw: Floorte Pro installation
  3. COREtec Pro installation guide
  4. Pergo Portfolio WetProtect installation (2018)

Linked PDF documents are archived copies saved by PreFloor Tools so they stay available if the publisher moves or removes them. Check the publisher's website for the latest revision.

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