Rebuilding a knee kicker: replacing pin plates and teeth, setting pin depth, and swapping the bumper pad on Roberts and Crain kickers.
A knee kicker takes a beating, but it's built to be rebuilt. The parts that wear are the teeth, the nap grips and the bumper pad. Replace those and a good kicker lasts for years.
These are the usual replacement parts on two popular kickers.
| Part | Roberts deluxe kickers[1] | Crain 605[2] |
|---|---|---|
| Teeth / pin plate | 10-412-07 kicker teeth; 10-412-04 base plate | 1601-B pin plate (16 hardened steel pins) |
| Nap grips | 10-412-03 | 1505-K |
| Bumper | 10-412-09 bumper assembly; 10-422-09 3" pad | 1600-C bumper |
| Body and dial | 10-412-01A | See parts list |
Pins are replaced as a plate or base plate, not one at a time.
Pin depth is the adjustment that matters most day to day.
A basic rebuild takes a few minutes with the right parts on hand.
These usually show up before a kicker fails completely.
Keep in mind that the installation standard doesn't treat a knee kicker as a stretching tool.[4] See Power stretcher vs knee kicker.
These are the kickers we stock, with links to their parts.
Linked PDF documents are archived copies saved by PreFloor Tools so they stay available if the publisher moves or removes them. Check the publisher's website for the latest revision.
Setting up a carpet binder: needle and orientation, thread tension, folder and tape width, stitch type, and single vs double pull.
Stretch-in and glue-down carpet removal: cutting strips, powered pullers, self-scoring scraper blades, and getting pad, staples and tack strip up.
Fixing skipped stitches, broken thread and poor feed on a carpet binder, with the checks from National's BindPro manual.
OEM replacement parts, organized by assembly, with the manual for each machine.
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