Row-cutting cut pile, cutting loop pile between rows, choosing a row finder and seam cutter, and CRI's seam sealing rules.
A seam can only be as good as the edges you cut. On most carpet, that means following the rows rather than a straightedge. Row finders open the row; seam cutters follow it.
Row-cut edges are preferred, but trimming too far into patterned carpet throws off the pattern match (section 10.1).[1] Some commercial guides go further. They call for row-cutting every seam except printed patterns, and advise against overlap or double-cut seams.[2]
The technique changes with the construction.
Row finders come in two main styles.[4]
| Tool | Use |
|---|---|
| Crain 366 (rounded notches) | Commercial loop pile |
| Crain 367 (pointed ends) | Dense cut pile |
Use a top-cutting blade to cut from the face, or a trimmer blade to cut from the back.
Seal every seam (section 10.2).[1]
On patterned carpet, match the pattern at the middle of the seam (section 16.6) and work out toward the ends.[1]
Do both pieces the same way, one full length at a time.
Most visible seams start with the cut.
More in Peaked and visible seams.
These are the row finders and cutters we stock.
Linked PDF documents are archived copies saved by PreFloor Tools so they stay available if the publisher moves or removes them. Check the publisher's website for the latest revision.
Setting up a carpet binder: needle and orientation, thread tension, folder and tape width, stitch type, and single vs double pull.
Stretch-in and glue-down carpet removal: cutting strips, powered pullers, self-scoring scraper blades, and getting pad, staples and tack strip up.
Fixing skipped stitches, broken thread and poor feed on a carpet binder, with the checks from National's BindPro manual.
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